Courtesy of Paramecium Spider Mite Infestation
Courtesy of Gilles San Martin, Red Spider Mite Tetranychus urticae
Often seen on the underside of leaves where they will sap the life out of any plant.
Spider mites include about 1,200 species. They generally live on the undersides of leaves. They sometimes spin silk webs like that seen at your left. They will puncture the leaves to feed.
Spider mites are tiny, about 0.04 inch and will vary in color.
Effective Control Bugs: Ladybug, Pirate Bug, Praying Mantis
Courtesy of gaucho GNU-FDL Freie Dokumentationslizenz
Whiteflies are small and feed on the undersides of plant leaves
Effective Control Bugs: Ladybug, Pirate Bug, Praying Mantis, Green Lacewing, Whitefly Parasite
Courtesy of カキクダアザミウマ Ponticulothrips diospyros
Thrips (Order Thysanoptera), slender, small insects with fringed wings. Common names include thunderflies, thunderbugs, storm flies, thunderblights, storm bugs, corn flies and corn lice.
Thrips species feed on plants and animals by puncturing and sucking up the internal fluids. Thrips are not good flyers and are generally less than 1mm in length.
Like sheep and deer the name thrips is used for both the singular and plural.
Effective Control Bugs: Ladybug, Pirate Bug, Praying Mantis, Green Lacewing
Aphid – Acyrthosiphon pisum, by Shipher Wu
Courtesy of the Public Library of Science
Green apple aphid (Aphis pomi) – A, adult sexual female; B, adult male; C, young female; D, female laying an egg; E, eggs, which turn from green to black after they are laid – (Enlarged about 20 times)
Small sap-sucking insects, members of the superfamily Aphidoidea.
Aphids are among the most destructive insects for any gardener. Their length varies from 0.4 to .39 inches.
Their natural enemies include aphid midge larvae, crab spiders, hoverfly larvae, lacewings, ladybirds and parasitic wasps.
Effective Control Bugs (they will eat aphids): Ladybug, Pirate Bug, Praying Mantis, Green Lacewing
The world of plants is very diverse. There are a lot of things about plants that benefit us. After all, we survive off of plants. Those of us who are vegetarians owe their existence to plants. They keep us alive. But, within the plant kingdom are some things that are just harmful to use. Poison Ivy is one … and it can be bad.
A typical case of contact with poison ivy will produce an itchy, oozy, rash that will make you want to scratch your skin off.
It is said that 85% of humans are susceptible to the poison ivy rash. If you are within that percentage stay away from poison ivy. Don’t go near it. Stay clear of it. Certainly, don’t touch it.
Here are some things you can do to rid your yard of poison ivy. The most often used remedy is probably a toxic chemical spray like Round Up or one of the other brand names. These work well but of course you are putting heavy duty chemicals into your soil when you use them. I have. They work well. I used it where I never grow anything. It was a spot up against my garage where the vine had taken hold.
Here are some ideas to get rid of poison ivy that are non toxic and will work … meaning they will kill the poison ivy in your yard. They may take a little more diligence. Maybe more than one or two applications. But you will get rid of that poison ivy and not pollute your yard … the ground water or water supply!
If you have the property you can bring in some goats and graze them. The poison ivy won’t hurt the goats and they will eat it all up in no time. Of course this being a very effective method it just isn’t for everyone. As another gardener recently said, “I’ve never heard of Goat rentals”.
Vinegar comes in different strengths and if possible use the most concentrated that you can get a hold of. Some will say to dilute it 50/50 with water, others say to use it full strength. I’ll go with the full strength but be as careful as possible to get it only on the poison ivy plants and not elsewhere is your garden. It can kill other plants as well. Spray the leaves. Soak them. You could spray some around the base where it will soak in to the roots too. Use the stream setting on your spray bottle so you don’t spray it all over, in a mist, that will blow around in the wind and come in contact with other plants in the area. Really soak those leaves and come back in a few minutes and hit them again. This method may take a few applications but it will work. If you do have an issue with acidity in the soil from the use of vinegar you can add some lime to the soil afterwards.
A typical spray bottle is about one quart, give or take some. To mix up enough for one spray bottle fill it half way with water and then add about a 1/2 pound of salt. The salt containers I purchase at my local grocer are just over 1.5 pounds. So use about half of one of those … it should just about fill that bottle. Mix it all up completely, this may take some doing. Starting with hot, or warm, water should help. Once it is completely mixed add a tablespoon to 2 tablespoons of typical dish washing liquid. This is really only used to break the consistence of the water so it will more easily adhere to the leaves of the plant.
Now soak those leaves. Go back a little while later and soak them again. Repeat daily until you see the plant is dying.
Salt and Vinegar
I’ve also seen it said to use the same two recipes above together. Start off with a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water, add salt at a rate of about 3 pounds per gallon of the 50/50 mix. Mix it completely and then add a couple tablespoons of dish soap and mix it up well.
Use the same procedure as above to soak the leaves.
This one was new to me when I read it but shows that there are a lot of things in life that don’t get along well with other things. Here is one such example that comes from thinking out of the box.
The recipe is saw called for 1 oz. of gin, 1 oz. of apple cider vinegar, 1 quart of water and 1 tablespoon of dish washing soap. The author of this recipe claimed it would kill the poison within one day. I’m not quite to optimistic because I am well aware of the fortitude of this plant. Use the same procedure to spray the leaves as the above recipes.
This works great on those clumps of grass growing in the cracks of your driveway and sidewalk too! Simply boil up some water in your favorite tea kettle. Slowly pour the boiling water over the plants, basically at the roots of the poison ivy. This may take a few days of repeating but it will work. Be super careful that you don’t splash any water back onto yourself. If you do, you’ll probably get poison ivy … that is probably a reason why not to use this method.
Don’t expect a layer of wood chips to kill this plant but if you have found it early in it’s life cycle, and it has not yet begun to grow up a tree or building, cover it with a thick layer of newspaper, cardboard, wood or anything else that will block water and light from reaching the roots of the plant. Cover it and leave it till next summer and you will be rid of the poison ivy (and anything else that you covered).
Personally I do not recommend this. Any time you come in contact with poison ivy you risk the possibility of getting it. If you must though, grab it as close to the roots as possible and pull it out. You probably won’t get all the roots and it will grow back. Dig down a foot if you can to get as much of the root as possible. Any piece left behind will grow back into a new an healthy plant.
Be sure to wear protective clothing, gloves, face mask, goggles etc, and you’ll either want to wash these things right away afterward, or throw them out. Remember that any of the poison from poison ivy that gets on your clothes will still give you the poison ivy rash if you come in contact with it.
1. Non-Toxic Fungicide
Mix 4 tsp of baking soda and 1 gallon of water. Use to defend against black spot fungus on roses and to protect grapes and other vine plants upon the first fruits appearing.
2. Spray to Treat and Prevent Powdery Mildew
Combine 1 tbsp baking soda, 1 gallon water, 1 tbsp vegetable oil (any variety), 1 tbsp dish washing liquid. Mix all ingredients and fill a spray bottle the mixture. Spray your at risk plants weekly, being sure to only apply on overcast days or days with no direct Sun to allow the mixture to dry before direct Sunlight returns – or the foliage can become Sun damaged. Powdery mildew typically attacks impatiens, lilacs, cucumbers, squash and zinnias.
3. Discourage Gnats In Soil & Fungus on Leaves
Combine 1 gallon water, 4 tsp baking soda, 1 tsp biodegradable soap. Mix thoroughly, spray infected foliage or soil as needed.
4. Discourage Weeds
Pour or sweep baking soda into cracks in sidewalks and patios. The thicker the amount the better. The baking soda should not only prevent weeds from developing, but it should also kill any small weeds that have already sprouted.
5. Kill Cabbage Worms
Mix equals parts flour and baking soda, then dust your effected plants being attacked by cabbage worms (cabbage, broccoli, kale). They chew the treated leaves and typically die within a day or two. Repeat dusting every couple of days until the cabbage worms are taken care of.
6. Kill Crabgrass
Just wet the crabgrass, pour a heavy dusting of baking soda on the weed. The crabgrass should start dying back in 2 or 3 days. However a word of caution – never apply to grass or other similar plants as it can burn and destroy your normal grass as well.
7. Clean Your Hands
After a day in the garden dirt, clean your hands by rubbing and scrubbing wet hands with baking soda. Rinse thoroughly.
Slugs can be a real problem in the garden, as well as really grossing you out!
Here is a recipe for a slug attractant.
1 teaspoon brewers yeast
1 Tablespoon sugar
1 Cup of water
1 large shallow dish, I use the lid from a large jar of mayonnaise or peanut butter, or something similar.
Mix it all up together.
Place the lid in your garden near where you are having slug issues.
Fill with Slug Brew.
The idea here is that the slugs will be attracted to the brew, crawl into it at night, which is why the container needs to be shallow. The container can be easily discarded come morning.
If you can set the lid into the garden right at garden level it should help in making it as easy as possible for the slugs to get into the trap.
I have heard that people simply use beer, instead of mixing up the recipe here, but I haven’t tried it. I believe it should work though as it is the yeast, which is in the beer, that will attract the slugs.